Kkakdugi깍두기

Radish salted and tossed with fermented seafood has a long history in Korea. The idea goes back at least to cheonghae (菁醢), recorded in the 18th-century text Somun Saseol, and the cookbook Siuijeonseo describes jeotmu, radish seasoned with salted shrimp, chili powder, scallions and garlic. The name kkakdugi (깍두기) itself turns up in the classic tale Chunhyangjeon, in a scene where the royal inspector is served a shabby table holding "bean sprouts, kkakdaegi and a bowl of makgeolli."

There is also a charming origin story. According to a cookbook called Joseon Yorihak, a daughter of King Jeongjo first made it and presented it to the king under the name gakdokgi (刻毒氣), and a high minister who retired to Gongju spread it among ordinary people, giving rise to the phrase "Gongju kkakdugi." It is best enjoyed as a story rather than proven history. At court, kkakdugi was cut small and neat so it could be eaten without opening the mouth wide, and was called songsongi.

Big cubes of radish-only kkakdugi became the standard side dish at seolleongtang (ox bone soup) restaurants, which led Seoul's dining-out culture in the early 20th century. Names vary by region: in Gangwon Province, kkakdugi made with pollack gills is called seogeori-kkakdugi. And because it shows up on every table, the word has a playful second life. In children's games, a kid who doesn't belong to either team and joins whichever side needs a player is called a "kkakdugi."