Smoky jeyuk-bokkeum (spicy pork stir-fry)

Jeyuk-bokkeum is the lunch-counter favourite: thin slices of pork in a sticky gochujang glaze, served with rice and lettuce for wrapping. Pork shoulder works best, as its fat keeps the meat juicy over high heat. The smoky edge comes from a very hot pan and patience. Spread the pork out and let it sear before you stir, and cook in two batches if your pan is small. Half an hour of marinating is enough, but overnight is even better.