Gwangjang Market: come hungry, leave rolling

One of Seoul's oldest traditional markets, and the food alley in the middle is the reason to go. I take every visiting friend here on day one. What to eat: - Bindaetteok: crispy mung bean pancakes fried in a lot of oil right in front of you. Get one with makgeolli (rice wine). - Mayak gimbap: tiny rolls with a mustard dipping sauce. The name means "drug gimbap" because it's addictive. It's just gimbap, relax. - Yukhoe (seasoned raw beef) if you're brave. How it works: sit at a stall counter, point at what you want, and pay at the end. Each stall has its own speciality, so share plates and move around. Evenings are packed; early afternoon is calmer.